Istanbul in 3 Days: A Cost-Conscious Itinerary That Covers Both Continents

Book online in advance and arrive at 9am sharp. By 10:30am, organized tour groups pack the ground floor. So beat them. Head straight upstairs to the gallery level for the best view of the central dome and the famous Deesis Mosaic, then come back down to the main floor as the early crowds move up.

The Cistern is a 5-minute walk from Hagia Sophia. It's atmospheric. It's also a lot of money for the 45 minutes you spend inside. The Medusa head columns are at the far back-left corner. If the price feels steep, the Serefiye Cistern (900 TRY) is a smaller, less crowded alternative with similar atmosphere.

Walk two blocks south of the Hippodrome to find lokantas (cafeteria-style restaurants with pre-cooked dishes behind glass). Point at what you want. These places serve the same food as a sit-down restaurant at half the price, and the food turns over fast so it is always fresh.

Enter through the Imperial Gate and head directly to the Harem before the afternoon rush. The Treasury (Second Courtyard) holds the 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond. The Fourth Courtyard terrace offers panoramic views of the Golden Horn and Bosphorus. Budget at least 2 hours for a thorough visit.

Enter from the Beyazit Gate (nearest to the Beyazit tram stop). The Bazaar has over 4,000 shops across 61 covered streets. Prices are negotiable on everything except food. Start by offering 40-50% of the asking price. Leather, ceramics, and Turkish lamps are the best value. Gold and carpet shops near the main entrances have the highest markups. Closed on Sundays.

Visit right at opening (8:30am) to avoid waiting. The mosque closes to visitors during all five daily prayer times, each lasting about 90 minutes. Check prayer times the night before and plan around them. Remove shoes at the entrance, women must cover their hair (scarves are provided free). Photography is allowed outside of prayer times.

A 15-minute walk from Sultanahmet, this mosque designed by the architect Sinan is larger, less crowded, and has better views than the Blue Mosque. The courtyard overlooks the Golden Horn. The garden behind the mosque contains the tombs of Suleiman the Magnificent and his wife Hurrem Sultan (Roxelana), both free to enter.

The Spice Bazaar is smaller and less overwhelming than the Grand Bazaar. Buy Turkish delight here (taste before buying, every shop lets you sample). For lunch, grab a balik ekmek (grilled fish sandwich) from one of the boats at the Eminonu waterfront, 80-120 TRY.

Walk across the lower level of Galata Bridge where fishermen line the railings. The restaurants underneath the bridge are tourist traps with inflated prices. In Karakoy, grab a Turkish coffee at one of the third-wave coffee shops before climbing the steep streets to Galata Tower. The view is panoramic. The 30 EUR ticket is steep. If budget is tight, the free terrace at the Suleymaniye Mosque gives you much the same panorama for nothing.

Walk the 1.4 km pedestrian avenue from Galata Tower north to Taksim Square. The street is lined with bookshops, record stores, consulates in grand 19th-century buildings, and side streets full of meyhanes (taverns). The red nostalgic tram runs the length of the street but moves at walking speed.

Take the public ferry (not a tour boat) from Eminonu or Karakoy to Kadikoy. The 25-minute crossing at sunset gives you the best skyline view in Istanbul for less than $2. Buy a glass of tea from the onboard vendor and sit on the upper deck.

Take the morning ferry from Eminonu to Kadikoy. The produce market opens early and sells fresh cheeses, olives, honey, and pastries at local prices. Walk south along the waterfront to the Moda neighborhood, where residential streets are lined with cafes and vintage shops. This is where young Istanbulites spend their weekends.

Come hungry. Turkish breakfast is a communal spread: dozens of small plates with cheeses, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, honey, kaymak (clotted cream), eggs, sausage (sucuk), and unlimited tea. Order for two even if you're solo, because the quantity is enormous. Neighborhood spots in Kadikoy or Moda run half the price of the Sultanahmet equivalents.

Take the T5 tram from Eminonu toward Alibeykov and exit at Balat or Fener. These adjoining neighborhoods have the most photogenic streets in Istanbul: painted Ottoman-era wooden houses, steep cobbled lanes, and almost no tourists compared to Sultanahmet. The Iron Church of St. Stephen of the Bulgars is entirely built from prefabricated cast iron, shipped from Vienna in the 1890s.

Cemberlitas Hamami (near the Grand Bazaar, built in 1584) offers a traditional package for about 2,400 TRY including scrub and foam massage. For a budget option, look for neighborhood hammams in Kadikoy or Uskudar at a fraction of the price. Go in the late morning when it is least crowded. Bring your own towel if you want a larger one than what is provided.

A meyhane is a Turkish tavern where you order meze (small dishes) one round at a time, paired with raki (anise spirit mixed with water). The waiter brings a tray of cold meze to the table for you to choose from. Here's the catch. You pay for every plate you take from the tray, so only pick what you actually want. Nevizade Street off Istiklal has the highest concentration of meyhanes.